Hello my friends, I had problems with my DA account and was unable to use it for months....I think all is back to normal. I've read lots of your comments on my artwork and want to say THANK YOU very much to each and every one of you!

I have been busy drawing and plan to post new work today. I also have a couple of drawing tutorials (video's) and I've updated my drawing tips. I will try and answer previous questions but it may take some time. Oh and I've decided to give drawing lessons from my home, if you're interested and live locally (Schoharie county, NY) please email me. 1995imaginee@midtel.net

IMAGINEE Drawing Tips ::

Deciding on a new drawing takes much time, not only does the reference photo have to be clear and large but it needs to be detailed and interesting, also have excellent contrast. If I am drawing something new (that I have yet to draw) I will look at many references and take in as much info as possible before starting, I want to see the subject from all sides.

After I select a reference I draw out a 1/4 -1 inch grid using an h pencil. I then print out a few copies of the ref. one I print the grid on, one is printed out darker (to better see shadows), one is lighter (to see details in shadows) and a few are close up's....it varies with each drawing. I draw a very light outline and then begin.... I start with the upper left corner and work my way down and to the right. I tend to turn the reference and drawing upside down and draw much of the piece like this, you can see shapes much easier this way. I am constantly reminding myself to look closer at the subject, see the fine details and draw everything, look at how the shadows fade away and draw it that way, see the different textures and draw them as they are. Details make the piece come alive so never pass up on any!

Only use good contrast photos (lots of darks and light tones) a good balance makes for a great drawing. Draw what you see in the reference but also draw what you know it should look like. Use a mirror when drawing a portrait, besides the photo reference you are your best reference. Most of what we draw is made up of precisely blended tones, so keep that in mind always. Rushing through an area can ruin the whole piece so never EVER rush. Finishing a small area at a time gives you the same feeling as when you finish the whole piece (u need to program yourself).

I use mostly a 3B, B and H pencil, some plain tissue and a blending stick/stump. I draw a few details in a small area and then color in tones and blend them with the tissue, I then go back over that area and darken up the details and put a new layer down, blend and repeat if needed. If I am shading an area and I want it to be as dark as possible I never blend, I just color the area in with close together pencil strokes and then go back over it a few times until it is as dark as I can get it. Highlights are left untouched and if they do get smudged I lighten em up with the kneaded eraser. I use a Mechanical pencil for all details...wood pencils are great for filling in tones. I work about an inch an hour on detailed areas. I use Strathmore 300 Series Bristol Board (smooth or vellum), any name brand Mechanical pencils and Derwent wood pencils.

Here is a list of tips (most of what was said above)


- Use only clear large reference photos (get permission if it's not a free stock photo)
- Use good contrast photos (lots of darks and light tones) a good balance makes for a great drawing
- Print out the reference in grayscale, lighten the photo to better see shadowed areas (print different samples)
- Do not draw from full frontal flash photos, they will look flat
- Begin with a light outline (draw a one inch grid with the H)
- Use a clean piece of plain paper under your drawing hand to prevent any smudges
- Keep works in progress (wips) covered when your not working on them
- Work on a small, 1-2 inch area at a time, finish it to near perfection before moving on
- Use a mechanical pencil to draw in details, the point is always sharp
- Leave highlights untouched and draw around them, use the kneaded eraser to lift out highlights when needed
- Color in tones with light-med pressure making sure to keep you pencil strokes close together
- When coloring in an area use circular stokes making sure to overlap all
- Wrap a piece of clean plain tissue around one finger and blend your mid tones
- Blend medium tones and then recolor in the area, build your tones until they are realistic
- Blend all hard lines, unless they are also seen in the reference or in real life
- Use a mirror when drawing a portrait, besides the photo reference you are your best reference
- Use a 3b pencil to build up the darkest tones, layer them and do not blend for near black tones
- Go darker to give the drawing more depth
- Turn the drawing and reference upside down to better see and render shapes
- Draw ever tiny detail you see, it’s the details that give the drawing realism
- Use light layers of a workable fixative on the finished drawing to help reduce graphite shine and smudges
- Keep in mind that an artist never stops growing, like everything in life you learn as you go along, time truly is your friend.
- Oh and if you rush a drawing it will show so sloooooow way down and enjoy your artistic journey.

I wanted to say once again thank you to everyone that has visited and left comments, I appreciate it very much!

I also wanted to pass on some news: I was asked to teach a few drawing classes in town, at this time I am writing up an outline of the course. On paper it's easy but teaching in person to a group of people I don't know, well that's a little scary. A question to all of you that have taken art/drawing classes, what did you think of them, give me some pros and cons, I would like to do a good job but don't have anything to go by. Thanks



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I have been asked many times for drawing tips, here are some I sent to a member a while back:

Tips and trade secrets I have many. Starting on a new drawing takes much time in selecting a great reference photo. Not only does the photo have to be clear and large but it needs to be detailed and interesting, also have excellent contrast. It takes me forever to select a ref....If I am drawing something new (that I have yet to draw) I will look at many references and take in as much info as possible before starting, I want to see the subject from all sides. After I select a ref I draw out a 1 inch grid using an h pencil, I then print out a few copies of the ref. one is for the grid one is printed out darker (to better see shadows), one lighter (to see details in shadows) and a few are close ups....it varies with each drawing. I draw a very light outline and then begin....

I start with the upper left corner and work my way down and to the right. I tend to turn the ref and drawing upside down and draw much of the piece like this, you can see shapes much easier this way. I am constantly reminding myself to look closer at the subject, see the details and draw everything, see how the shadows fade away and draw it that way, see the different textures and draw them as they are. Details make the piece come alive so never pass up on any!
Use good contrast photos (lots of darks and light tones) a good balance makes for a great drawing. Draw what you see in the ref but also drew what you know it should look like. Use a mirror when drawing a portrait, besides the photo reference you are your best reference. Most of what we draw is made up of precisely blended tones, so keep that in mind always.

Rushing through an area can ruin the whole piece so never ever rush. Finishing a small area at a time gives you the same feeling as when you finish the whole piece (u need to program yourself). I use mostly a 3b and H pencil, some plain tissue and a blending stick/stump. I draw a few details in a small area and then color in tones and blend them with the tissue, I then go back over that area and darken up the details and put a new layer down, blend and repeat if needed. If I am shading an area and I want it to be as dark as possible I never blend, I just color the area in with close together pencil strokes and then go back over it a few times until it is as dark as I can get it. Highlights are left untouched and if they do get smudged I lighten em up with the kneaded eraser. Using a Mechanical pencil is perfect for tiny details...wood pencils are great for filling in tones. I work about an inch an hour on details.

I use Strathmore 300 Series Bristol Board (smooth or vellum), any name brand Mechanical pencils and Derwent wood pencils.

I hope this was of some help ~Linda


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If you would like to buy a print or commission a drawing please email me: 1995imaginee@midtel.net
Anyone from DA will receive a discount!







--------------------------------------------------------------------
I am a member of:
Visit my website: [link]

I received the following note:

An administrator has relocated 3 of your deviations to scraps.

The adminstrator also said the following:
Works in progress belong in Scraps, since they are not finished pieces of art.

FAQ: Why was my deviation moved?
Moved Deviation #1: Marilyn Monroe
Moved Deviation #2: Depp
Moved Deviation #3: No Idea

Replies to this automated note will be lost; please use the help desk if you have any questions.

I think the administrator should look a tiny bit closer next time they move a finished peice*LOL* however they did move a couple of my wips to scraps (where they belong). I have already moved 2 pieces back to my gallery, anyway I thought I would share this and ask if this has happened to you?
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I have been asked many times for drawing tips, here are some I sent to a member a while back:

Tips and trade secrets I have many. Starting on a new drawing takes much time in selecting a great reference photo. Not only does the photo have to be clear and large but it needs to be detailed and interesting, also have excellent contrast. It takes me forever to select a ref....If I am drawing something new (that I have yet to draw) I will look at many references and take in as much info as possible before starting, I want to see the subject from all sides. After I select a ref I draw out a 1 inch grid using an h pencil, I then print out a few copies of the ref. one is for the grid one is printed out darker (to better see shadows), one lighter (to see details in shadows) and a few are close ups....it varies with each drawing. I draw a very light outline and then begin....

I start with the upper left corner and work my way down and to the right. I tend to turn the ref and drawing upside down and draw much of the piece like this, you can see shapes much easier this way. I am constantly reminding myself to look closer at the subject, see the details and draw everything, see how the shadows fade away and draw it that way, see the different textures and draw them as they are. Details make the piece come alive so never pass up on any! I was working on a portrait last night and I got to the ear and I must say an ear is great practice, there are so many little in's and outs (highlights and shadows), as I drew I knew the ear needs to be 3d looking so I took much time with it and have to say I am very happy I did. I drew what I saw in the ref but also drew what I know an ear looks like. Most of what we draw is made up of precisely blended tones, so keep that in mind always.

Rushing through an area can ruin the whole piece so never ever rush. Finishing a small area at a time gives you the same feeling as when you finish the whole piece (u need to program yourself). I use mostly a 3b and H pencil, some plain tissue and a blending stick/stump. I draw a few details in a small area and then color in tones and blend them with the tissue, I then go back over that area and darken up the details and put a new layer down, blend and repeat if needed. If I am shading an area and I want it to be as dark as possible I never blend, I just color the area in with close together pencil strokes and then go back over it a few times until it is as dark as I can get it. Highlights are left untouched and if they do get smudged I lighten em up with the kneaded eraser. Using a Mechanical pencil is perfect for tiny details...wood pencils are great for filling in tones. I work about an inch an hour on details.

I use Strathmore 300 Series Bristol Board (smooth or vellum), any name brand Mechanical pencils and Derwent wood pencils.

I hope this was of some help ~Linda


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A few of my drawings, email me if you would like to buy a print: 1995imaginee@midtel.net
Anyone from DA will always receive a discount!







--------------------------------------------------------------------
I am a member of:
Visit my website: [link]

I haven't updated my journal in many months so I thought I would take a moment to send a BIG HELLO out to all of you! Summertime I don't post much, I have had a few commissions and will upload them soon. I've been promoting my art a bit more and even have a piece in a local art gallery. Zahara is doing great and we have a new dog named Queenie, she was my mom-in-laws and now she is ours. Well that's it for now my friends....If you like leave me a comment and tell me what you have been up to. Take care~Linda

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I have been asked many times for drawing tips, here are some I sent to a member a while back:

Tips and trade secrets I have many. Starting on a new drawing takes much time in selecting a great reference photo. Not only does the photo have to be clear and large but it needs to be detailed and interesting, also have excellent contrast. It takes me forever to select a ref....If I am drawing something new (that I have yet to draw) I will look at many references and take in as much info as possible before starting, I want to see the subject from all sides. After I select a ref I draw out a 1 inch grid using an h pencil, I then print out a few copies of the ref. one is for the grid one is printed out darker (to better see shadows), one lighter (to see details in shadows) and a few are close ups....it varies with each drawing. I draw a very light outline and then begin....

I start with the upper left corner and work my way down and to the right. I tend to turn the ref and drawing upside down and draw much of the piece like this, you can see shapes much easier this way. I am constantly reminding myself to look closer at the subject, see the details and draw everything, see how the shadows fade away and draw it that way, see the different textures and draw them as they are. Details make the piece come alive so never pass up on any! I was working on a portrait last night and I got to the ear and I must say an ear is great practice, there are so many little in's and outs (highlights and shadows), as I drew I knew the ear needs to be 3d looking so I took much time with it and have to say I am very happy I did. I drew what I saw in the ref but also drew what I know an ear looks like. Most of what we draw is made up of precisely blended tones, so keep that in mind always.

Rushing through an area can ruin the whole piece so never ever rush. Finishing a small area at a time gives you the same feeling as when you finish the whole piece (u need to program yourself). I use mostly a 3b and H pencil, some plain tissue and a blending stick/stump. I draw a few details in a small area and then color in tones and blend them with the tissue, I then go back over that area and darken up the details and put a new layer down, blend and repeat if needed. If I am shading an area and I want it to be as dark as possible I never blend, I just color the area in with close together pencil strokes and then go back over it a few times until it is as dark as I can get it. Highlights are left untouched and if they do get smudged I lighten em up with the kneaded eraser. Using a Mechanical pencil is perfect for tiny details...wood pencils are great for filling in tones. I work about an inch an hour on details.

I use Strathmore Bristol (smooth or vellum), any name brand Mechanical pencils and Derwent wood pencils.

I hope this was of some help ~Linda

------------------------------------------------------------------

A few of my drawings, email me if you would like to buy a print: 1995imaginee@midtel.net
Anyone from DA will always receive a discount!







--------------------------------------------------------------------
I am a member of:
Visit my website: [link]

I just now saw that I went over 100,000 hits! WOW thank you for the visits! Life has been good, been busy with a few things, oh and I finally bought a new camera! I got a Canon 30d and a few lens, my dog Zahara has been my model, the poor pup. Drawing kinda took a back burner to the camera but one thing for sure is I can never go to long without a pencil in my hand. Thank you again for the visits, comments and favorites I'll be uploading more art to the gallery soon. ~Linda

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I have been asked many times for drawing tips, here is a recent reply I sent in a note:

Tips and trade secrets I have many. Starting on a new drawing takes much time in selecting a great reference photo. Not only does the photo have to be clear and large but it needs to be detailed and interesting, also have excellent contrast. It takes me forever to select a ref....If I am drawing something new (that I have yet to draw) I will look at many references and take in as much info as possible before starting, I want to see the subject from all sides. After I select a ref I draw out a 1 inch grid using an h pencil, I then print out a few copies of the ref. one is for the grid one is printed out darker (to better see shadows), one lighter (to see details in shadows) and a few are close ups....it varies with each drawing. I draw a very light outline and then begin....

I start with the upper left corner and work my way down and to the right. I tend to turn the ref and drawing upside down and draw much of the piece like this. I am constantly reminding myself to look closer at the subject, see the details and draw everything, see how the shadows fade away and draw it that way, see the different textures and draw them as they are. Details make the piece come alive so never pass up on any! I was working on a portrait last night and I got to the ear and I must say an ear is great practice, there are so many little in's and outs (highlights and shadows), as I drew I knew the ear needs to be 3d looking so I took much time with it and have to say I am very happy I did. I drew what I saw in the ref but also drew what I know an ear looks like. Most of what we draw is made up of precisely blended tones, so keep that in mind always.

Rushing through an area can ruin the whole piece so never ever rush. Finishing a small area at a time gives you the same feeling as when you finish the whole piece (u need to program yourself). I use mostly a 3b or 2b and H pencil, some plain tissue and a blending stick/stump. I draw a few details in a small area and then color in tones and blend them with the tissue, I then go back over that area and darken up the details and put a new layer down, blend and repeat if needed. If I am shading an area and I want it to be as dark as possible I never blend, I just color the area in with close together pencil strokes and then go back over it a few times until it is as dark as I can get it. Highlights are left untouched and if they do get smudged I lighten em up with the kneaded eraser. Using a Mechanical pencil is perfect for tiny details...wood pencils are great for filling in tones.

I use Strathmore Bristol (smooth or vellum), any name brand Mechanical pencils and Derwent wood pencils.

I hope this was of some help ~Linda

------------------------------------------------------------------

A few of my drawings, email me if you would like to buy a print: 1995imaginee@midtel.net
Anyone from DA will always receive a discount!







--------------------------------------------------------------------
I am a member of:
Visit my website: [link]